Arrive in Salvador, Brazil

Day 10

Here's the low-down on what I've done so far today in Salvador. We were awakened by chaos in the passport department; they couldn't decide how the process was going to go. First it was by sea, then randomly by name, then they went ahead and had the de-briefing meeting, then the process went back to by sea with random face-to-face stamping.

I could have slept in for longer. We finally disembarked after ten am and walked to the elevator that takes you to the upper city. The street we walked along to get to the elevator smelled like urine. Horses kept clomping by, I assume as a part of the Independence Day parade. They were setting up a marketplace in a plaza at the base of the elevator, which we perused, but didn't buy anything in. There was another plaza at the top of the elevator with spectacular views of the bay. People everywhere were were trying to sell us shell necklaces, straw hats and other things. There were street bands playing drums and different instruments, some bow-looking thing plucked or played with a bow. Women dressed in colorful skirts with hoops underneath, lace tops and turbans tied ribbons on our wrists that can grant us a wish when they fall off.

We followed several groups off the elevator that took people between the upper and lower city and asked directions to Palurinho Square, but no one could understand what we were asking. They just gestured and said 'centro' or 'downtown.' So we meandered that direction, taking pictures. Finally we found someone who spoke English, and he said the place was just around the corner.

In the plaza was a gorgeous church. Only 3 real ($1.50) to get in. We were unable to see the main part because it was closed until the afternoon. But the old part and the museum were open. We wandered around for some time before our empty stomachs got the better of us.

Around the corner we found a restaurant with outdoor seating. The neighboring restaurants were packed with other semester at sea kids. We ordered Pinã Coladas and different plates. The food was good, but the pina coladas were strange. They tasted normal at first, just creamier. But there was a strange nutty aftertaste. They were good, just not quite pina coladas. We should have ordered cerveza like most of the other SASers. It was only three real for huge bottles. Meals in Brazil must last longer than we're used to. It seemed as if they didn't want us to leave. I was afraid they would never bring the check, but just wait until we ordered something else.

We wandered around in the streets for a few hours looking at all the souvenirs. All over the place we saw colorful, beautiful paintings of the traditional women and capoeira. If I had been able to get money out of the ATM I would have bought one. We practiced bargaining with several of the vendors, but didn't have much success. I guess it will take time and practice. The buildings were so colorful: blue, yellow, pink. However, they were all crumbling, with deteriorating façades.

Later that night we went to the welcome reception. It was such a blast. I hung out with Josie the whole night. They had the women giving out bracelets and the drummers at the entrance to a circus arena where the party took place. They handed us drinks as soon as we were inside. People walked around with trays of drinks or bottles of beer to refill our cups. There were also various different trays of food. I tried a teardrop-shaped fried ball of some kind of meat, chicken I think, a roll with cream in the middle and crumbled cheese on top and goat cheese on a stick that you warmed up over a fire.

The entertainment was amazing too. They started with a demonstration of capoeira followed by jugglers, women dancing with fire, acrobatics on long strips of fabric and, finally, drummers. After being amazed by the circus performances, I had to go dance with the Brazilians. They showed us how to dance their version of the salsa, in which your feet are never still, and some line dancing. I was dripping with sweat by the time the drummers were finished. Then a DJ came out and everyone flooded the dance floor.

We had to leave by midnight, but we were exhausted by that time anyway.